For my first kitchen garden column in The Oldie, ten years ago this month, I wrote about leeks. Many leeks are still standing in the ground in March – also the month for sowing seeds for this year’s crop. It’s worth reviewing this vegetable again.
The Old English term for a kitchen garden was leac-tun, meaning leek enclosure. Leeks used to be considered a poor man’s vegetable, perhaps because they will survive the hardest winters, and they have been associated with allotment gardens since their introduction by Acts of Parliament in the 19th century.
Seeds may be sown in early spring, ideally in pots under glass, and planted out in June, when the seedlings should be about eight inches tall.
A useful tip, which I have been given in the last ten years, is to pour water into the holes you make – with a dibber – for planting the leeks, about six inches apart.
A deep hole will help to ensure that the leeks form long white stems. Earthing up to exclude light will also keep the leeks white, and give them stability during winter storms.
My usually reliable and very hardy leek variety is Musselburgh. However, thanks to last year’s dry summer, and my failure to water regularly, a few of the leeks bolted, forming a hard centre.
Once lifted, the leeks will need to be washed to rid them of soil – which reminds me of a friend who once asked sarcastically if I was aware that you can buy cleaned leeks from Tesco. Of course the home-grown ones taste much better.
Two of the most famous soups – cock-a-leekie and crème vichyssoise – are made with leeks, which are also a staple ingredient of various pies and vegetable dishes. One of my winter favourites is tartiflette. Though traditionally made with potatoes, it is excellent with leeks, bacon, bread, Reblochon or Emmental cheese and cream.
As a national emblem of Wales, the leek will be much in evidence on St David’s Day, not least in cawl, the traditional Welsh lamb stew.
