The Hind’s Head, Bray Maggie Jones’s, Kensington, London Heston Blumenthal is to Bray what Rick Stein is to Padstow. Both chefs have taken over the gastronomic outlets of small bourgs, right down to the fish and chip shop but Heston, like ‘Jamie’, is as scientific in his branding as he is in his molecular gastronomy. It may well be down to their eras: Rick Stein started in heady 1975; Heston launched himself twenty years later with the Fat Duck. The former now has six establishments in tiny Padstow; yet somehow they maintain a charm and individuality, whereas our waiter at the Hind’s Head was only too happy to tell me and Mrs P that, of Heston’s three redoubts in Bray, we were in the mid-market one. As proud as I am of my middle-class roots and attitudes, one doesn’t like to be told that one’s mid-bloody market, at £45 for...
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