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Pursuits | By James Pembroke

Hélène Darroze at the Connaught, London W1

The Cambridge Chop House, King's Parade, Cambridge

Where would you take the editor of The Oldie for lunch? London’s hotels have long been taken over by superstar chefs but, at lunch, bargains are to be had. These prices seem mighty but are worth every extra pound for a completely different tier of food. Your ears won’t blanch at Claridge’s, now that sweary Gordon Ramsay has left; so, you can have three courses for £42 at Simon Rogan’s Fera. Or three courses for £35 at Galvin at Windows in the Hilton. All very well, but the editor deserved better. A quick glance at him reminded me of Alec Guinness – a Smiley with an actual smile – who used to hold court at the Connaught. So, off we cycled to Hélène Darroze at The Connaught, which offers a three-course lunch, including two glasses of wine and coffee, for £52.  It was simply miraculous. We had foie gras with...

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