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Restaurants

Pursuits | By James Pembroke | January 2018


Villa di Geggiano, Chiswick

Apicius, Cranbrook

When is the best time of year to eat out in England? Simple: mid-September to mid-November. The pressures of wondering whether rain will stop play are behind us and there’s scarcely any tinsel in sight. We Brits are in our natural furtive climate: some of us raging against the dying light; others enjoying the prospect of leaving a lunch table in the dark.  As you read this, you will be as Lindisfarne monks suffering under the wrath of the Viking invasion of office Christmas parties. Exchanging horned helmets for paper hats, office workers, sensible for 364/365ths of the year, will be rendered infantile. None of them will remember what they ordered, mainly because Sonia in accounts asked them whether they wanted turkey or salmon back in August; they will have developed a thirst for prosecco which would have shocked Beowulf, and will have developed a Norman Wisdom routine of tripping...

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