Stuck on a train to London in an August heatwave, passengers were taking emergency measures: fans, cold drinks pressed to cheeks, quiet expiration. As I journeyed, I realised I was an hour early for a journalistic assignation at a pub close to Hampstead Heath. I hadn’t set foot in this pub since I lived close to the Heath a quarter of a century ago, when I was new to London and swam in the ponds. I had a sudden, nostalgic brainwave: could I swim in the ponds before my meeting? I’d heard dark tales about pre-booked admission only, but when I checked online, miraculously, the hour-long slot before my interview was still available. I booked and changed trains for the Heatwave Express, the North London Line, which takes swimmers to the Heath. The mixed pond is a brown lozenge of water set in a cleft in the rolling greenery, surrounded...
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