Free Very Best of The Oldie when you subscribe

Subscribe

Travel Tips

Travel | July 2017


Beyond Venice It’s amazing, given the millions of tourists who flock to Venice, that hardly any of them venture beyond the Lagoon. Yet nearby, in the Regional Park of the Euganean Hills, which provided volcanic stone for the pavements of Venice a millennium ago, there’s an enormous undiscovered castle. Catajo Castle, built by the Obizzi family, 1570–73, is possibly the largest in Italy. They chose to build a castle rather than a villa, despite the emerging new fashion, because they were soldiers of fortune and admired all things medieval. There are staircases for horses (no need to dismount to reach the grand first-floor rooms), and a courtyard which was flooded to stage miniature naval battles. Majestic and ochre-coloured, it nestles against a backdrop of conical, vineyard-covered hills next to the ancient canal connecting it to Venice. Three sisters in their nineties had lived there and nothing had changed for 10...

Buy a digital version of this issue for £2.99 now