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Uncork a bottle of champagne: the ideal cure for gloom, bereavement and divorce

Features | December 2017

Champagne is the ideal cure for gloom, bereavement and divorce. Above all, it injects laughs into our serious age, says Charlotte Metcalf

I am drinking champagne at Soho’s Academy Club with my friend of forty years, Johnny Ray. I’d arrived admitting to a slight hangover, at which point Johnny dismissed the bread and ordered two glasses of Pol Roger.  I’m feeling better and he’s now persuading me that that, despite all the dull health warnings to the contrary, all oldies should drink more champagne – or good sparkling wine. ‘As we grow old, nothing lifts the spirits like it,’ he says, a stripling oldie himself at fifty-seven. ‘I used to have two lovely children but now they’re grunting adolescent boys who hardly talk to me; I’m always disappointing my wife; I’ve got hair growing where it’s not meant to and none where it once was on my head; my friends are dying or divorcing. ‘But look, here we are and I feel ten times better than I did when I walked in. The...

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