Kirsty Fergusson writes:
‘I’ve been visiting the Dordogne and writing about its extraordinary gardens for the British gardening press for over two decades, and have recently moved from the Bordeaux wine country to live on a former walnut farm on the fringe of the Perigord Noir.
‘October in the valleys of the rivers Dordogne and Vézère is a magical time to visit this irresistible part of France: the summer tourists have departed, the truffle season is underway; orchards of ripening walnuts and fat geese run down to the tranquil rivers. Troglodyte villages, shaded by fig trees growing from improvised garden crevices, sit high above the Dordogne, and fortified châteaux rise amongst immaculate vineyards.
‘Here, perched high on the limestone cliffs or buried deep in the wooded valleys, some of France’s most classically inspired – yet most innovative – gardens are to be found. Deliciously provocative or dreamily evocative, these gardens are lessons for all of us who are excited by strong, imaginative planting and bold structural design. Lovers of fine wines and good eating will not be disappointed either.’
We will be staying at the delightful and ‘reassuringly expensive’ Hotel Le Vieux Logis in Trémolat, a picturesque riverside village in the heart of the Dordogne. The hotel has a Michelin-starred restaurant where we will enjoy one amazing dinner.
ITINERARY
Thursday 21st October – arrival
Fly to Bordeaux and transfer to Le Vieux Logis before departing for lunch at the Chartreuse du Colombier and a tour of the garden. Dinner at Le Bistrot de la Place in the village.
Friday 22nd October – Sarlat and Le Manoir d’Eyrignac
Visit the extraordinary topiary gardens of Le Manoir d’Eyrignac, created by Gilles de Sermadiras during the sixties. His son, Patrick, has continued to develop the gardens and will be on hand to welcome us. Lunch at L’Adresse in the market town of Sarlat, a short drive away, with time to explore Sarlat’s delightful historic centre and shops.
Dinner at Chez Julien in nearby Paunat.
Saturday 23rd October – Marqueyssac and La Bambouseraie de Planbuisson
Following the Dordogne, we arrive at Marqueyssac, an impressive clifftop garden overlooking the river. Perfectly clipped box writhes and swirls round the handsome manor house and prefaces a stunning woodland walk to a belvedere.
Lunch in the garden’s own café-restaurant. In the afternoon we cross the river to discover the remarkable bamboo garden, La Bambouseraie de Planbuisson, created by Michel Bonfils on the site of his family’s walnut farm.
We return to Trémolat to dine at our hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant.
Sunday 24th October – Monbazillac
Bergerac is famous for its wines; we visit Monbazillac for a special wine-tasting and relaxed long lunch at the highly acclaimed La Tour des Vents. We return to Trémolat and have supper at Le Bistrot de la Place.
Monday 25th October – Château de Losse and Lascaux
This morning we head north, following the river Vézère, to visit the Château de Losse and its gardens overlooking the river. Lunch is included at the château before we continue to find the newest recreation of the Lascaux caves. Lascaux IV is a spectacular complete reconstruction of the cave complex, famous for its remarkable prehistoric paintings. Dinner at nearby Auberge Les Truffières.
Tuesday 26th October – Saint-Cyprien and Josephine Baker
We visit the traditional morning market in the pretty riverside town Le Bugue, en route to Saint-Cyprien for lunch in a charming brasserie, La Taverne, in the heart of this picturesque village. In the afternoon we visit the house and beautifully restored gardens of Château des Milandes, made famous by Josephine Baker who lived here with her ‘rainbow tribe’ from 1957 to 1969. Return to Trémolat for dinner at Restaurant Le Chopin Gourmand.
Wednesday 27th October – home
Depart for a visit to the pretty gardens of Sardy en route to Bordeaux airport to catch the afternoon flight to Gatwick.
Price: £3,950; £700 single supp.
HOW TO BOOK:
Call 01225 427311 or please email Katherine at reservations@theoldie.co.uk
Price per person sharing a double/twin room: £3,950, including 7 nights’ accommodation, all meals, wine with meals and all transport during your stay.
You need to pay for drinks outside of meals.
Single: supplement £700
Deposit: £750 per person; balance due 1st March 2027.
WALKING & MOBILITY
Our tours have been created to show you as much as possible of your chosen destination, and often the best way to do this is on foot. In order to enjoy these holidays you need to be reasonably fit, able to stroll at a normal pace for at least 40 minutes, to go up and down a staircase without assistance and to stand - perhaps in a queue - for 10 or 15 minutes at a time. Should you have any concerns whatsoever, please speak to Katherine on 01225 427311.
TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES
Although we are pleased to welcome clients with disabilities, their participation will depend on the nature of the disability and in some cases it will be necessary to be accompanied by an able-bodied companion. In order to ensure the comfort and enjoyment of all participants on any tour we must ask you to declare full details of your disability, especially if this affects your mobility, so that we can consider your personal circumstances.
